Georgia
By Steve Gregson, Blackburn, Lancashire
{gallery}caucasus{/gallery}
The map showed a way over the Lesser Caucasus mountains to Manglisi, but as we pushed our bicycles in constant rain up the steep and stony track, there had been no signs of civilisation for 5 hours when suddenly we came across the Kvatakshevi Monastery. 'No way onwards' and 'no room at the inn' so it was back down into the valley for a sleep and re-think. By now the shoe soles were hanging off!
Georgia is a welcoming and easy country to visit. No need for a visa beforehand, an efficient airport with facilities open 24 hours and was a natural destination after previous Caucasus tours. There were three distinct parts to this tour:
Part 1. Arriving at 03.00 a.m. the Tourist Information Office, money exchange bureaux and cashpoints were all working. Security officers allowed me to build up one bicycle and I left Anni sleeping and guarding the luggage whilst I rode towards Tbilisi and a small, clean hotel. Cycling east from Tbilisi Airport, Kakheti was flat and scorchingly sunny through Sagarejo, Sighnaghi, a walled town and then on to the wine centre Telovi. Traffic all the time becoming lighter. There, our landlady said that the roads westwards were unmade and impassable for bicycles but we found them perfect for us who travel at 12kph. Maybe car drivers who want to drive at 80kph or faster find them frustrating. The countryside was hilly and wooded. The snow covered 5000mt Caucasus mountains often visible to the north. In Tianeti, the 'homestay' owner provided home grown food, wine from their vines and we danced.
Part2. At Zhinvaly, we turned north on the Georgian Military Highway, the road to the high mountains and Russia. The rain started and as we climbed it turned colder, so that at Pasanauri, we were ready for a nice warm bed but the only hotel there was shut. A young lady with a mobile phone offered help and soon we were following her friends to their small guesthouse 3km out of town. A family party was in full swing. What a spread and wine flowing! A 3 piece band soon got everyone dancing. The stove in our bedroom smoked the room out ( our panniers smelt for 2 days ) so we joined the party whilst the clothes dried. The Highway headed upwards to Gudauri and in cold rain, almost at the ski resort, we took shelter in a honey maker's wooden caravan with 2 Berlin long distance cycle campers. They explained about the huge landslide that blocked the upper valley and needing three weeks to clear a way through.
A rest day in Gudauri was out of the question, mist and heavy rain, so it was off back down the valley to historic Mtskheta. Weather down in the valley warm enough.
Part 3. The Lesser Caucasus. Our first attempt to cross the mountains to Manglisi had been unsuccessful, and a second night in Mtskheta was needed to check the route and to buy a pair of plimsoles. A big thank you to the typically helpful young lady in the Tourist Office. Again, in rain and mud the consistancy of clay, it was mostly pushing through steep woodland, past historical statues ( Battle of Didgori) and with numerous false summits in more open country. Clouds were below us by then. At one time it looked like a lone church was to be our sleepover but suddenly the stream in which we were struggling upwards was noted as flowing in our direction. Hurray, we were past the top (1700mt.). Wet and victorius, at 6pm, the asphalt was reached. It was an hour downhill to the welcoming Manglisi hotel where the receptionist re-opened the kitchen to cook us a meal. 2 young mothers with their babies, holidaying in the good woodland air, spoke good English and we managed to partly clean off the football sized lumps of mud! At Tsalke, BP had taken every room for the new pipeline construction but Sofia, a friendly young lady had already offered her home to us. Her family had come down from Svaneti where 6 months of snow annually made farming to odifficult ( they spoke an unwritten Svaneri language). Sofia was about to start studying law at university and by her character is sure to do well in life. It was the least we could do to leave, partly hidden, a donation.
At the top of the Paravani Pass, 2100 mtrs , thunder and lightning, then large hailstones and nowhere to shelter on the open moorland. Anni's legs were bruised for a few days. The road was white and slippy as we carefully descended but after a few minutes, warmth and steamed local trout, in a welcoming cafe. On then via Armenian-inhabited Ninotsminda and AkhalkalakiI, travelling by day to avoid the perils of cognac and wolves, all the while open Steppe landscape with snow covered mountains in the distance. Roads nicely graded, but with aggressive dogs to outrun, and on to the cave town Vardzia where there is be plenty to keep you busy, especially if you like history, Rough-Stuffing and to walk in the mountains. On then, descending leisurely to Akhaltsikhe, then Borjomi with its mineral waters for another 'rest day'. There, a near 3 hour train ride ( 30p!) takes you up to Bakuriani ski resort at 1600mt. and then a wonderful 18 miles descent back to town, the summer equivalent of downhill skiing?
Quiet days on rolling minor roads to Gori, Stalin's birthplace and an overnight in a renovated Soviet style hotel, overlooking the rail carriage that took him to the Potsdam Conference. A penultimate day with long views north to the South Ossetia Caucasus. Small shops, open on the Sunday sold fresh bread, water and snacks. The final day, a short ride through Tbilisi to collect our cardboard boxes for the flight home. There was a wide embankment by the river, rather like by the Thames but no-one using it so we could make good progress and enjoy good views of the capital.
So, Georgia a fantastic experience, the plusses the high mountain scenery, quiet roads bordered with colourful flowers and the most welcoming folk. Perhaps friendly horn blowing and the dogs in the mountains the only minusses. We will be back, next time to Racha, High Svanneti and perhaps the Black Sea coast. Anyone fancy a trip?