Plateau de Coscione
by Pat Lloyd
After camping the previous night at Zonza we spent a leisurely morning cycling to Aulene, the highest village in Corsica where as it was Sunday we decided to treat ourselves to lunch at the Hotel de la Poste. This is an old coaching inn run by the same family since the late 1800s. Judging by the number of club badges decorating the door it was obviously a popular place with cyclists and as the Rough Guide to Corsica had also given it a good write up we didn't need much encouragement to extend our day of luxury by booking a room for the night.
The bikes were locked up safely in the adjoining store room where the numerous smoked parts of the many wild pigs were hanging from the ceiling covered by an impressive layer of dust. The elderly owner of the hotel took us under his wing and provided us with a free glass of bilberry liqueur and a folder of randoneres for cyclists in English. This made interesting reading and decided us that the next day we would ride to the start of one of the off road routes, unfortunately we had already passed where it came out and didn't wish to retrace back.
The following morning we left on the D69 cycling up the valley passing groups of the wild pigs slumbering by the roadside. Apparently there are approx. 30,000 pigs, roaming the island, 10,000 of them are culled every year which probably accounts for the prevalence of pork on the restaurant menus and also making wild camping a chancy business.
The wind was behind us which was a great help in climbing the Col de Vaccia from where we had marvellous views of the mountains, still with patches of snow in the crevices. The number of cyclists toiling up the other side of the col made us glad that we hadn't pushed on the extra 24km to Vicavo as everywhere would have been full. It was amazing how many riders with stripped down bikes that we saw on all the cols, we seemed to be the only cyclists who actually carried any baggage.
It was 16km to the turn off for the D428, signposted Plateau de Coscione and also the Refuge de Bassetta.
The road had been tarred and was not too bad to start with but soon acquired a few potholes as it climbed steadily up the valley shaded by the many chestnut trees which provided the pigs with their staple diet.
At 22km we passed a memorial stone to Pierre Kemp who died in 1957 awhile working on the construction of the road and after another 3km reached the refuge of Bassetta. We were now at 1310 metres and it was getting quite chilly so we were glad to find that the bar at the refuge also provided coffee. The weather was deteriorating and besides being cold was looking like rain so we asked if was possible to stay the night. The lady in charge looked doubtful as she had a party of thirty coming who were walking the GR20 but after checking her lists she led us to a new wooden hut which contained a double bed with a bunk above, another double bunk and a single bed.
After unloading the bikes we continued our ride further up the valley on a road which was now mostly potholes and loose rocks and soon arrived at the small chapel of St. Petru. This was locked but we could see a statue of the saint on the altar through the bars of the unglazed window, nearby were two small stone buildings, one with an open door, which had been taken over by the pigs and the other with the door latched which had a fireplace. There was a spring close by and as the water in Corsica is very pure this would make an ideal campsite apart from the resident pigs. A concrete table and benches provided our lunch spot and when finished we retraced 250 metres to where a wide sandy track went off to the right which was the start of the off-road route that we had read about at the hotel; the following is the description.
The track climbs to 1415 metres where there is the Refuge of Matalza in a clearing with a small ford. After 400 metres there is a submersible bridge over the Veracolunga stream at 1407 metres. In another 30 metres there are the bergeries of Calvallara (sheep pastures where cheese is made) and at 1521 metres there is a junction of four tracks. Turn right on to the southern track which rises to 1690 metres 38km from Aulene is the Refuge de Bucchinera at 1480 metres and at 46km you arrive at the hamlet of Jallicu at 1107 metres where there is a gite. Another 11km brings you to the D420 at Quenza where there is a hotel. Sounds very interesting but not this holiday.
As it was getting cold we headed back to the refuge where the thirty walkers had arrived. I don't know where they all slept but we had the hut to ourselves and can thoroughly recommend the place as we had one of the best evening meals of the holiday and a more than adequate breakfast, all for 365F.
Apart from a two mile section of the D27 from Bocagnano which had reverted back to bedrock this was the nearest we came to roughstuff while in Corsica which was having an exceptionally hot May and for someone who wilts in warm weather the thought of heaving a loaded bike over anything but tarmac was out.
Two maps cover the whole of Corsica - IGN 73 and 74. This route is on the 74 where it is shown as partly unfenced road and partly cart track.