It was with tongue in cheek that I asked John what did he think about picking an official camp site as a base for 4 or 5 nights. I need not have worried, he fell in with the idea, saying he felt the same way as me about having to cope with the heaw-laden cycles. I thought - no need to cut down the toothbrush handle, I could take a shaving brush, spare shoes, underwear, two shirts, an air pillow instead of stuffing shorts, jacket and cape into the saddlebag. I could even have a choice of porridge or cereal (what luxury), a full-size towel as well as the usual face-cloth, a book to read, a radio, even a comb - if I had any hair.